Study: How Reliable Are Hair Growth Treatments You See on Social Media?

“Forget Minoxidil and hair transplants. What if I told you that mushrooms are the secret weapon for hair growth?” You may have come across videos like this on social media like TikTok and Instagram. Each one promotes so-called ‘miracle cures’ to promote hair growth or prevent hair loss. The classic image of someone who was almost bald and suddenly has a full head of hair is supposed to prove that such remedies really work. And anyone who is concerned about hair loss will continue to watch it attentively.

This is how we started

Our research unit has spent the past few weeks delving into various treatments that promise to make your hair grow again. From supplements and serums to more complex treatments such as hair fillers and red light. We present the results to a panel of four independent experts: Prof. Dr. Jan Gutermuth, head of the dermatology department at UZ Brussels, Prof. Dr. Dirk Devroey from the VUB and board member of the SKEPP study group, Prof. Dr. Guy T’Sjoen, endocrinologist at UZ Ghent and doctor Bijan Feriduni, hair surgeon from Hasselt and a European authority in hair transplants.

1. Hair gummies
Those who don’t feel like undergoing an expensive and complex hair transplant can also grow their hair with so-called ‘hair gummies’. At least, that’s what the companies that advertise such sweets on social media claim. The gummies are supposed to block DHT (dihydrotestosterone), a hormone that is produced from testosterone and that makes your hair fall out. One of the videos promises: two gummies after breakfast will give your hair the natural boost it needs. Another video shows a man who supposedly got a full head of hair again after 60 days, thanks to the gummies.

"Some studies suggest that your hair could fall out from a deficiency of certain nutrients. If you have no deficiencies at all, those supplements won't work."
Prof. Dr. Dirk Devroey, VUB & SKEPP

But is it really that easy? Professor Dirk Devroey is adamant: “There is no strong scientific evidence that shows that such gummies or similar supplements work and that they can even block DHT.” As a board member of the SKEPP study group, he regularly evaluates whether these kinds of pseudoscientific claims are correct. “Many of these products contain biotin or certain vitamins and minerals. Some studies suggest that your hair could fall out from a deficiency of certain nutrients. But if you don’t have a deficiency at all, these supplements won’t work.”

2. Shampoo
‘Blocking DHT’. It is a promise that appears in various hair growth products. Most shampoos that you see online are also said to stimulate hair growth and prevent hair loss. The shampoos that we see online mainly contain natural supplements or substances such as caffeine, which are said to inhibit DHT and thus limit hair loss. Some even contain recognized medicines such as Minoxidil (see below).

But Prof. Dr. Guy T’Sjoen also has his doubts about this treatment. “Medicines like finasteride have been scientifically proven to block DHT. But I have not seen any strong scientific evidence about shampoos yet. I certainly have my doubts about natural supplements. If it has not been scientifically tested correctly, you cannot know whether it works.”

And even if those shampoos contain approved medicines, rather than natural supplements, experts have their doubts. “Shampoos only stay on the scalp for a short time and are therefore much less powerful than lotions,” says Prof. Dr. Jan Gutermuth. “They can provide a healthy environment for hair to grow,” adds Dr. Feriduni. “But their impact on androgenic hair loss (which is caused by the male hormone in your body, ed.) is minimal. They do not penetrate the hair follicles deeply enough for that.”

3. Herbal oil
Also many herbal oils are promoted as a natural remedy for hair loss. To name a few: rosemary oil, castor oil, garlic oil, but also cloves or cumin seeds are sold. Not only as advertising, but also many influencers swear by these products. The promise is similar to that of shampoos: apply and your hair will grow or fall out less quickly.

4. Dermaroller
If you’ve ever seen an influencer on social media promoting a certain herbal oil, they might have done so with a so-called ‘dermaroller’ or ‘dermastamp’, a small device that uses microneedles to make tiny holes in the skin. These holes and small wounds are said to improve blood flow to the scalp, according to various videos on TikTok.

"If you do not combine a dermaroller or stamp with another treatment, the effect will be negligible."

“As with some oils, there is very limited scientific evidence that such stamps and rollers can help treat certain forms of hair loss,” says Professor Devroey, who compares the roller to a form of ‘microneedling’. “That treatment will help especially when combined with other therapies.” Doctor Feriduni agrees. “Some studies show that such a roller can have a positive effect with Minoxidil. The holes in the skin allow the minoxidil to be better absorbed, which improves blood circulation and stimulates hair growth.” The experts agree: if you do not combine a dermaroller or stamp with another treatment, the effect will be negligible.

“A few studies suggest that garlic oil and rosemary oil may have benefits in treating hair loss, although they are not conclusive,” Professor Devroey immediately puts things into perspective. “Garlic oil could help with alopecia areata (or localized hair loss, ed.), although that type of hair loss sometimes recovers without treatment. According to a few studies, rosemary oil may even have a similar effect as Minoxidil in people with hereditary hair loss, due to its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. But again, those studies are limited and vary in quality. So their use cannot be medically supported.” Doctor Feriduni nods. “Such oils are marketed as a ‘natural’ alternative to medicines. They can mainly make the scalp healthier, but the impact on hair loss is limited.”

5. Platelet rich plasma (PRP)
In addition to supplements - such as gummies - or shampoos and oils, there are also quite a few treatments that you don't just take. Platelet rich plasma, or PRP, is one of those treatments. In this treatment, a doctor centrifuges plasma from your own blood, for example by taking it from your arm, and injects it into the hair root. Blood plasma contains many growth factors, which will restore the root and stimulate hair growth. Or so our reporter was presented with in two hair clinics. But does this treatment really work?

Professor T’Sjoen does not dismiss the treatment, but he is cautious. “Theoretically it is promising, but in the medical literature you read that the quality of the scientific evidence is still very low.” Professor Gutermuth is cautiously positive that PRP can have a positive effect. “I used to have doubts, but in the meantime we see more and more literature about PRP appearing. Of course there are clinics that offer these types of treatments as ‘early adopters', without much scientific evidence for them. Besides, if you do not repeat the treatment regularly, there is a good chance that your hair will fall out again. So it is very expensive.”

Experts agree: a promising method, but there is still too little strong scientific evidence to be sure that it works. The same goes for stem cell therapy, which is often used in combination with PRP. "A treatment that shows promising results in laboratories, but is still in the experimental phase," says Dr. Feriduni. "It is not yet a standard treatment for hair loss, because the long-term effects are still unclear."

6. Red light therapy
Another treatment that you can only have done by an expert is a therapy with red light. Also called Low-Level Laser Therapy or LLLT. Because red LED light waves penetrate deep into the scalp, hair growth is stimulated, we keep reading.

Experts are cautious about the effect. “Red light is said to reduce oxidative stress and improve blood circulation to the scalp. But this technique is also often offered in alternative centres where there is no certainty about the quality.” Professor T’Sjoen adds: “Newer treatments such as red light therapy are being intensively researched and are promising. But in the medical literature you still read that the quality of the scientific evidence is very low,” says Professor T’Sjoen. “It can extend the growth phase of hair follicles and indeed improve cell metabolism,” adds Dr. Feriduni. “Although it is not a miracle cure. See it as a complementary treatment alongside scientifically proven methods with medicines such as Minoxidil or Finasteride.”

7. Hair fillers
And then there are hair fillers, a relatively new treatment that has become very popular in a short time. Hair fillers are used to combat hair loss and improve hair density. A mix of ingredients, such as hyaluronic acid and peptides (a molecule made up of amino acids, ed.), are injected into the scalp. The aim is to improve blood circulation, nourish hair follicles and stimulate hair growth.

“There are some studies that suggest that certain ingredients in hair fillers, for example peptides, can have positive effects on hair growth,” says Devroey. “But again, the number of strong, large-scale clinical studies investigating hair fillers as a total treatment is too limited to really recommend them.” “The effectiveness of hair fillers depends on what is in them,” adds Professor Gutermuth. “If they contain vitamins, they can help people who are deficient in certain nutrients. But they don’t work for people who are not deficient.”

"Hair fillers are a good cosmetic or supportive treatment, but not a real medical solution."Doctor Bijan Feriduni, Haarchirurg

Dr. Feriduni is also cautious: “Hair fillers are a good cosmetic or supportive treatment, but not a real medical solution. They will temporarily improve the health of the scalp, but they will not stop hormonal or genetic hair loss. There is also too little evidence for peptides themselves that they stop hair loss or stimulate hair growth in people with hereditary hair loss.”

8. Medication
“There are actually only two standard therapies that are truly scientifically proven,” says Professor Gutermuth. “Medications such as Minoxidil or Finasteride.” Minoxidil is a serum that you apply locally twice a day, leave on for a few hours and then wash out. It extends the life of your hair, which means that your hair will fall out less quickly and sometimes also promotes hair growth. Finasteride is taken once a day as a pill. It blocks DHT, which means that your hair will fall out less quickly.

Although the effect of Minoxidil and Finasteride has been scientifically proven, the experts also warn of possible side effects. "Finasteride affects the functioning of your testosterone, which can cause a reduced libido and erection problems," says Devroey. "Minoxidil solutions can cause irritation or itching. If you were to take these remedies, the effects should be monitored by a doctor." T'Sjoen also warns: "If you still want to get pregnant, it is important to interrupt the therapy with Finasteride six months in advance. And if you want to maintain the desired result, you must also continue to take the medication consistently. Otherwise, the hair growth that has been achieved may fall out again."